Srinagar, Sonamarg, Gulmarg and Pahalgam
Kashmir circuit with a spare day
The four classic stops in a sensible order, plus one day in Pahalgam with nothing booked. Use it for Aru, a long river walk or a lie-in.

Houseboats, old city lanes and the lakeside gardens. Every trip starts here.
Srinagar is where every trip begins, and our office is here too, in Rambagh on the way in from the airport. Most visitors give the city one night and a shikara ride. Give it two and you see a different place: vegetable traders on Dal at first light, the wooden shrines and spice lanes of Downtown, and the old bridges over the Jhelum.
The lake side is the postcard. Dal is ringed by Mughal gardens laid out in the 1600s, with Shalimar, Nishat and Chashme Shahi along the eastern shore and Pari Mahal on the hill above. Nigeen, just to the north, is calmer and our first choice for a houseboat if you want a quiet night.
Arriving on an afternoon flight? Spend that first evening on the lake and keep the gardens for the next morning, when they are cooler and emptier.
Each one has a full day-by-day plan, and every one can be changed.
Srinagar, Sonamarg, Gulmarg and Pahalgam
The four classic stops in a sensible order, plus one day in Pahalgam with nothing booked. Use it for Aru, a long river walk or a lie-in.
Sonamarg to Naranag, with Srinagar either side
Seven alpine lakes, three passes and about 70 km of trail from Sonamarg to Naranag. We build in a buffer day at Gangbal and finish with a houseboat night.
Srinagar, Wular Lake, Razdan Pass, Dawar and Tulail
Five hours north over the Razdan Pass to a valley of log houses and the Kishanganga river. Four nights up there, including a full day in Tulail.
Season, timing and where each one happens. We arrange guides, permits and tickets.
Rivers and lakesCedar hulls, carved walnut ceilings and tea brought out to the deck. We book on Nigeen when you want quiet and on Dal when you want to be near the Boulevard.
Rivers and lakesLeave the houseboat at about half past five and paddle to the inner lake, where growers sell lotus stem, greens and gourds from one boat to the next. It is all over by seven.
Food and cultureThe Kashmiri feast, cooked by a waza: tabak maaz, rista, rogan josh and gushtaba to finish, shared from one trami. Ask and we will find a vegetarian spread too.
2,650 m
A meadow under Apharwat. The Gondola, ski slopes and high lakes in summer.
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2,200 m
The Lidder river, pine forest and Aru, the trailhead village above town.
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2,800 m
Glacier meadows on the Sindh, and the start of the Great Lakes trek.
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2,400 m
Log villages on the Kishanganga, over the Razdan Pass from Bandipora.
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