Five hours north over the Razdan Pass to a valley of log houses and the Kishanganga river. Four nights up there, including a full day in Tulail.
₹29,999per person
Gurez lies on the far side of the Razdan Pass, close to the Line of Control, and is one of the few corners of Kashmir that still feels a long way from anywhere. The drive is half the reason to go. You leave Srinagar along the shore of Wular, climb the switchbacks above Bandipora to the Tragbal viewpoint, cross the pass at about 3,300 m and drop into the Kishanganga valley.
We keep you up there for four nights, which is long enough to slow down. Dawar is the main village, with the pyramid of Habba Khatoon peak above it and log-built houses along the river. Tulail, further east, is quieter still. People here speak Shina, and dinner at the homestay is simple and very good.
Airport pickup and a quiet evening. We go over the route, the checkpoints and what to pack for Gurez.
Hotel, SrinagarAn early start past Wular Lake and Bandipora, a stop at Tragbal for the view back over the valley, then over the pass into Gurez.
Homestay, DawarA slow day in Dawar. See the wooden mosque, the spring at the foot of Habba Khatoon peak, and spend the afternoon by the Kishanganga.
Homestay, DawarDrive east up the river into Tulail, stopping in log villages along the way, with a packed lunch by the water. Back by dark.
Homestay, DawarWalk the fields above the village, fish for trout with a licence or sit by the river with a book. A short hike to a viewpoint over Dawar if you want one.
Homestay, DawarBack over Razdan, then a tea stop at Manasbal lake before the city.
Hotel, SrinagarTransfer to Srinagar airport.
Changes and cancellations follow our cancellation policy.
Gurez is a restricted border area. Indian travellers show ID and are logged at the army posts on the way in, and we sort that paperwork. Visitors from abroad need advance permission that is not always granted, so talk to us before you book.
Patchy. Some postpaid networks work in Dawar, but expect long gaps on the road and in Tulail. Warn people at home that you could be out of reach for a day or two.
It usually opens in late May or June and closes with heavy snow, often in November, but the dates move every year. We check the road before you travel.
Doodhpathri, Yusmarg, Daksum, Sinthan Top and Srinagar
A week in the meadows most visitors skip. Two quiet valleys in Budgam, the forest at Daksum and the high road over Sinthan Top, ending on a Srinagar houseboat.
Srinagar, Sonamarg, Gulmarg and Pahalgam
The four classic stops in a sensible order, plus one day in Pahalgam with nothing booked. Use it for Aru, a long river walk or a lie-in.
Sonamarg to Naranag, with Srinagar either side
Seven alpine lakes, three passes and about 70 km of trail from Sonamarg to Naranag. We build in a buffer day at Gangbal and finish with a houseboat night.
